Scarf Style/Wrap Style Knit-Along

The inspirations for this knit-along are the Scarf Style and Wrap Style books (from Interweave Press); should you wish to share your creations from the book, this is a wonderful place to do it. Also welcome are helpful tips, corrections, ideas for variations, and suggestions for materials. This knit-along will last indefinitely, so join any time!

Tuesday, January 24, 2006

Please help with Ene's Scarf!

I've just gotten Scarf Style and my yarn from Knitpicks and am already stuck. Here are a few questions:

  1. I've cast on my 375 stitches, so do I begin row 1 on Chart 1, right half and work through row 1 on Chart 1, left half before moving on to row 2?
  2. I'm confused about where to put stitch markers. I'm assuming I put one where there are green lines (after stitch 4 on row 1 for example). Do I also put them wherever there are red lines? Like, when doing row 1, do I put one right before the 11 repeated stitches and again after and then again after each repeat? There would be a lot of stitch markers in row 1 then, right?
  3. What do I do where there is a gray box indicating "no stitch?" How do I not stitch...do I just slip that stitch? I'm totally confused!

Thank you so much for any help! I'm really excited about this scarf. I'm knitting it for my grandma.

Jodi

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9 Comments:

  • At 1:47 AM, Blogger Jenn said…

    I can't help with your first two questions...But on a knitting chart where it says "no stitch," that means that there literally is no stitch there. In other words, there WOULD have been a stitch there, but in a previous row you decreased somehow, which means that where there were once two stitches, there's now one. Does that make sense? I'm probably not explainig it well.

     
  • At 9:48 AM, Blogger hollyboc said…

    You did a good job of explaining it Jen. Another way of saying it is that there simply is no stitch there anymore and you just move on to the next one.

     
  • At 11:08 AM, Blogger Jodi said…

    OH! So, because I k2tog right before that, there is no more stitch...duh. Thanks!

    Now, I hope someone can help me with my other 2 questions. :)

     
  • At 11:15 AM, Blogger Lori said…

    Chart 1 is shown broken into two halves so it will fit on the page.

    If it helps, you could copy the Chart 1 page, cut out the two charts, and tape them together so you don't need to do any mental gymnastics to follow it. Just be careful not to lose the center stitch when you reassemble the pieces.

    As you correctly guessed, for Row 1 you work the right half of the chart, then complete Row 1 by working the left half chart. Note that you should be at the center stitch when you're ready to begin the left half chart. If you're not, check to make sure you haven't made any mistakes in the earlier part of the row.

    On wrong side rows, because you are reading the charts from left to right, you will work the left half chart first, then the right half.

    If you're not familiar with how to read charts, I recommend Ann Budd's article "Making Sense of Symbols: A Guide to Reading Charts."

    This article originally appeared in the summer 2000 issue of Interweave Knits, but as a holiday present Interweave Press has opened its subscriber-only area to everyone. The code word is cable. Go to www.interweaveknits.com, find the subscriber-only content link, and you'll find the article in the Beyond the Basics category.

    Yes, you should put markers where the green lines are to set off the borders from the main body of the scarf.

    The red boxes are pattern repeats. For Row 1 right half chart, this means you work the stitches before the red box once, then repeat what's inside the red box as many times as indicated, then work the stitches after the red box once.

    Then proceed to the left half chart and work the center stitch once, the stitches before the next red box once, repeat the contents of the next red box as needed, then work the stitches after the red box once. That should get you to the end of the row if everything went OK.

    For this particular pattern, you probably do NOT want to put markers between the repeats where the red lines are. The reason for this is that there are double decreases right at the edge of some repeats.

    These double decreases consume stitches that would lie on both sides of the marker. You will need to keep repositioning the markers so they don't get knitted into middle of the decreases, which can become tedious.

    It's also very easy to replace a marker in the wrong spot when you're shifting markers constantly, and this might fool you into thinking you've made a mistake when you're actually correct.

    If you need the security of markers, what works better is to hang a removable marker or safety pin in each double decrease itself as you complete it. As you work the following rows, check to make sure that double decreases which should line up vertically really do stack up properly one above the other. If they don't, then you can backtrack to the last place where they lined up OK, and check from there for any mistakes.

    And finally, as the other posters have said, the "no stitch" boxes mean exactly that: there is no stitch. The no stitch squares mark the location of the stitches you have decreased away as you shape the triangle.

     
  • At 12:13 PM, Blogger Jodi said…

    Thank you so much, Lori!! I think I've got it, now!

    The reason I asked about the stitch markers at the red lines is because there is a post in November that shows a picture of Ene's Scarf after the first chart is done and she has a lot of stitch markers on it. I saw another one like this that was only about 1/2 into the 1st chart, so I thought I had to put a bunch of stitch markers somewhere.

    I will only put them at the green markers, then. Then, it won't be so confusing. Thank you for your AWESOME post!!

     
  • At 12:17 PM, Blogger MaryNC said…

    Jodi, I'm presently working on Ene's Scarf, too. First question: Yes, after casting on, you work on Row 1 Right Half, then continue with Row 1 Left Half...working right to left in the charts. Then you work Row 2 in the Left Half, then continue with Row 2 in the Right Half...working left to right in the charts. Continue in this fashion. Stitch Markers: I have 6 markers on my needles. One on either end between the border and the body, one to mark where the repeat pattern begins and one to mark where the repeat pattern ends, and one on either side of the center stitch (I did that instead on hanging one on the stitch as suggested). Grey area: Literally means that there are no stitches. Remember that you are decreasing every row. Just go on to the next white box (stitch).

    I found early on that I had to be vigilant in my counting of stitches, especially in the repeated pattern area. (NOTE that sometimes you will have a stitch left at the end of the repeat pattern. That is because it will be used in the s1k2togpsso, which is the next stitch, ex. Row 37, Chart 3) I am almost at the end of the 2nd time through Chart 3 and I'm still counting my repeat pattern stitches. Speaking of Chart 3, I noticed that there was no indication of the number of pattern repeats to be done. Then I found that Lori had posted an answer to Kim's question regarding the same issue on 9/30/05. Quoted here:
    "The first time you work Row 33 to Row 56 of Chart 3 each red box will be repeated 20 times, and 313 stitches will be decreased down to 265 stitches, as stated in the pattern.

    If you count the gray "no stitch" boxes across the top of the chart in Row 56, you can see that 48 stitches total (24 from each half) are removed each time you work the chart. The 24 stitches decreased from each half are "worth" four of the 6-stitch repeats, so each time you work Chart 3 you will have 4 fewer repeats in each half of the scarf.

    So, when you work Chart 3 the second time through, each red box will be repeated 16 times. The following time you work Chart 3, each red box will be repeated 12 times, then 8 times, and finally 4 times for the last appearance of Chart 3."

    Excellent explanation...thanks, Lori. I only wish that Interweave had thought to give us that clue.

    This is my first attempt at lace and I'm really liking it!

     
  • At 1:05 PM, Blogger Jodi said…

    Thank you Mary! You have been a HUGE help! I'm so glad that there is a KAL or I'd be totally lost! It's my first time knitting lace as well, so we'll see. Thank you!

     
  • At 6:44 PM, Blogger Kim said…

    Hi Jodi,
    I think the Ene you saw in November was mine. I did use stitch markers between each repeat on chart one. Like Lori said, I did have to keep repositioning them, but after trying to knit this twice before with markers only at the edges and in the middle, and then having to frog 375 stitches...I decided it was worth the tedium to move the stitches when I needed it. It did not happen on each row, only where the repeat began with a double decrease.
    Do what works for you, and take it slow and steady :-)

     
  • At 4:30 PM, Blogger Chicago Jen said…

    I say AMEN to what Kim said!! i started three times and until I put stitich markers between EACH pattern repeat in the edging, I had to rip and restart or frog 375 stitches. My advice? Go slow and steady and whether you use markers or not, COUNT that there are 14 sts between each sl1-k2tog-psso. I did great with all the markers but once I got to the second chart, with all the yo,k2tog I've lost a few sts. No I have to go back and rip the entire row b/c I had to take out my markers. grrrr.... long and short of it? Go slow, read your knitting, read your chart and compare often! Happy Lacing!

     

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